Project Description

Hot Wire Prince

Pattern Description:

This fly is a combination of two of the most popular flies on Earth. The Prince Nymph and Copper John got together in the fly bins one night and spawned this offspring. The two-tone wire body creates a great segmented effect while adding weight and durability to the pattern. Using the two colors of wire at once is a great way to create new colors…the green and hot yellow used here produces a nice insect green shade, while red and blue will make for a purple version. The combinations are endless and I am sure a few of you could figure out exactly how many there are! Whip up a few of these and stash them in your box. They make a great caddis pupae imitation or even just plain attractor fly.

Materials Needed:

Hook: TMC 3761 #10-18

Bead: Gold Tungsten, sized to hook

Weight: Lead Wire, sized to hook

Tail: Brown Goose Biots

Abdomen: Brassie sized wire in Green and Small sized wire in Hot Yellow

Thorax: Peacock herl.

Hackle: Brown or Furnace Hen Neck

Horns: White Goose Biots

Step 1

Slide a bead on the hook and place it in the vise. Wrap about a dozen turns or more of lead wire on the shank.  Break the ends off the lead wire and shove the lead wraps up into the back of the bead.  Start the thread behind the lead wraps and build a small thread dam from the bare shank up to the diameter of the lead at the rear edge.

Step 2

Continue the thread base forward over the lead wraps with slanted turns. You want to slant the thread as you go over the lead so the thread doesn’t slide down between the lead wraps. Wrap up to the back of the bead and back again to the bend of the hook forming a smooth thread base as you go.

Step 3

Select two brown goose biots and oppose their curves. Measure the two biots against the shank so they are equal to about one half a shank length.

Step 4

Tie the biots in at the bend of the hook so they are about a half shank long. Check out the Bead Head Prince Nymph or Copper John tutorials and videos for more details on mounting biot tails.

Step 5

Wrap forward over the butt ends of the biots to just past the back end of the lead wraps. The biots will help to form a smooth underbody for the wire to come next.

Step 6

Even the tips of one strand of Brassie sized Green wire and one strand of small sized Hot Yellow wire. We are using two different sized wires to create a more striking ribbed effect. You could use two strands of wire of the same size if you wanted, but the color variegation comes out better with alternate sizes.

Step 7

Tie both strands of wire in along the near side of the shank at about the seventy percent point.

Step 8

Wrap back over the two strands of wire to the bend of the hook making a tight, smooth thread base as you go. Return the thread to the front where you tied the wire in.

Step 9

Begin wrapping both strands of wire forward at the same time. Keep the wire wraps as close together as you can, ideally, butting perfectly together with no gaps. Hold the two strands of wire as close to the hook as you can as you wrap them around the hook, this will help keep them from spreading apart as you wrap.

Step 10

Wrap the wire all the way up to the 75% point and tie them off. Helicopter the ends of the wire to break them off flush against the hook.

Step 11

Tie in a half dozen bushy peacock herls by their tips at the front of the wire abdomen. Wrap back over the peacock, overlapping the front edge of the abdomen to the sixty percent point.

Step 12

Bring the thread forward to the back of the bead and then wrap the peacock herls forward forming a nice juicy thorax. Tie the herls off at the back of the bead and clip the excess.

Step 13

Select and size a hen neck feather that has fibers equal one and a half hook gaps. Prepare the base of the hen neck feather as shown here by trimming the fibers along the stem into short bristles.

Step 14

Tie the hen feather in by the trimmed end just behind the bead with the inside of the feather facing the hook shank. we want this feather to wrap with the inside, concave surface toward the rear of the hook.

Step 15

Pull the feather up above the hook and stroke the fibers back to the rear side of the quill by wetting your fingers and pinching the feather as you stroke the fibers rearward.

Step 16

Fold an inch or so of feather. You don’t need to worry about folding the entire length as we will only be wrapping it a couple of turns.

Step 17

Make the frst turn of hackle as close to the front of the peacock thorax as you can. See how the fibers slope back after we folded them?

Step 18

Make two or three more turns of hackle going toward the bead and tie the feather off. Clip the excess hackle tip flush.

Step 19

Reach in with your thread hand and pinch the hackle fibers back along the hook shank. Hold them there for a moment while you then…

Step 20

…reach in and hold them in place with your material hand. Hold the fibers back along the shank while you wrap the thread slightly back over the very front edge of the hackle. Be sure to keep the hackle distributed 360 degrees around the shank. wrapping the thread back over the front side of the hackle will help to sweep it back.

Step 21

You should now have a beautiful soft hackle collar as shown here. Pretty, ain’t it?

Step 22

Peel two white goose biots from the stem and cross them like scissor blades. I tie these in with the curves facing up, for no other reason than to be different. You could tie them in with the conventional curves down, but you’d just be the same as everyone else. wait, if you tie them in curves up you’ll be the same as me. I would rather be like me than everyone else. Wait, what? Measure the biots against the shank so they extend from just behind the bead back to the base of the tail and end of the body.

Step 23

Place the biots flat on top of the shank and press your thumb down on them to hold them in place. make a couple tight wraps of thread over the bases of the biots just behind the bead to anchor them in place.

Step 24

The biots should be on top of the hook and the tips should extend back to the base of the tails. Note the super sexyful upturned biots.

Step 25

Clip the butt ends of the biots as close to the back edge of the bead as you can. wrap the thread over the little white stubs that are invariably leftover.

Step 26

Build a smooth thread head behind the bead and whip finish. Clip the thread and add a dose of head cement all the way around.